Driving home this afternoon I heard part of ABC Radio
National’s Australia Talks, on the
subject of that great Australian summer holiday ritual, the drive to wherever
the Christmas-New Year holiday is to be spent.
The consensus was that, in spite of the vast improvement in
our roads, modern, time-poor city folks don’t want to spend more than about
three hours in the car to get to where they are going. This caused me to reflect on the summer
holiday drives of my childhood and youth.
I grew up in Armidale and from 1948 until I left home at the
end of university in 1966 we went every year to Port Macquarie for three weeks
from a few days before Christmas until the first week in January. The drive was
quite a business – in those days the New England Tablelands were very isolated
by the bad roads which lay in every direction, including, I can dimly remember,
the New England Highway to Sydney having eighty miles of unsealed road between
Tamworth and Singleton. Those were the
days when you had to book ahead to get a seat on the train.
There were three possible ways of driving to Port
Macquarie. The most direct route was via
Kempsey, down the road through Bellbrook.
I don’t actually know anyone who went that way, although I have seen
photos taken on that road before the Second World War by an Armidale Greek
family. In the post-war years it was
definitely 4WD territory, but even then it was not always passable. I travelled some way along it a few times in
my early secondary school days when an American student at UNE (David Werner, inevitably
known as “Hank the Yank”) used to invite me to accompany him in his searches for
specimens in the rain forest at the edge of the escarpment. Stunning scenery, and the leeches were friendly, but the road
was definitely not in good shape.
The road of choice in those early years (late 1940s to
mid-1950s) was the Oxley Highway, a 158 mile journey that included 108 miles of
unsealed road between the outskirts of Walcha and the entrance to Wauchope. This included a stretch of narrow winding
road that wound its way down the mountain through state forest from which timber
(the last of the cedar, I fancy) was being harvested, so one would inevitably
come up behind a timber jinker and eat its dust for the rest of the journey,
there being no possibility of passing it. The 158 mile journey typically took
about eight hours in our 1948 Ford Anglia tourer, and one arrived caked with
dust.
So when some time in the late 1950s the road to Dorrigo was
sealed, it was no contest. The journey via Dorrigo and Bellingen, picking up
the Pacific Highway at Urunga, was a longer journey, but faster, safer and
definitely cleaner. And by that time we had graduated to an Austin A40, which
at least nominally kept the dust out.
Now the roads are all sealed and Google Maps tells me that
the journey time from Armidale to Port Macquarie (247km via the Oxley Highway)
takes 3 hours and 14 minutes.
Nevertheless, it was exciting doing it the hard way in the
little old car, to end the day lying in bed at the Beach Park Holiday Cabins with
the sound of the surf crashing onto Flynn’s beach just a couple of hundred
yards away.
1 comment:
Trust me, the road to Bellbrook is still terrible! I drove it the first at night. Had I first driven it in the day time I would never had done it a second time. When I saw some of those corners and drops in the daylight I was just a little nervous!
Post a Comment